Day 19 – June 28, 2009
We left Albuquerque under cloudy skies and the ever present wind. Within 30 minutes we pulled off to put on jackets and 30 more minutes we stopped to put on the rain suits. The ground and the mountains in New Mexico are all a deep red. Quickly the mountains slip into the far distance and the wide open range is covered with brown grass and cactus. In this semi-desert environment there are no trees and one of the locals at a rest stop said ‘it never rains here’ well I guess we brought it because it was raining; not hard and not for long but enough to make it cold. By 1 PM the sun was out and the temp was climbing fast so another stop to remove the rain suits and jackets. As we crossed into Texas the range changed from red to white sand with more cactus and small trees; some dead and some trying to survive then suddenly the range was green around Vega Texas. There were cattle in the fields and corn growing. We passed the first feed lot since the ones we saw in Kansas. It was as if a line had been drawn in the sand – west dry, desert – east green, growing. My brother-in-law moved to Texas over 15 years ago and sold his motorcycle because the wind was such a problem. He just purchased another one this past year. Had the wind stopped or had he gotten use to it? I can tell you the wind has not stopped. It is always blowing but usually it picks up strength around 2 in the afternoon. The sun is hot and you can get a real nice tan in about an hour out here in the wide open spaces. We have arrived in Amarillo for the night.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Hello from New Mexico
Day 18 – June 27, 2009
It was already warm when we left Winslow around 7:30 AM heading for Albuquerque, New Mexico. A few miles down the road we pulled off route 66 at Holbrook, AZ to find the Painted Desert and the Petrified Forest NP. Downtown Holbrook is a typical example of the old route 66 era where you find the Wigwam Motel with several cars from the 1950’s parked in front. Just as we entered the road to the Petrified Forest there were two information/souvenir businesses with several cars parked outside. I pulled into one and when we parked the bikes we noticed the tires were flat on one of the cars; then we noticed the second car didn’t have a tag and the tires on the third car were flat. Wouldn’t you guess – all the cars were ‘junks’ parked there to make it appear as if they were busy when in reality they weren’t even opened yet! We went across the street to the second business and while they were open and did have two or three real customers they too had 2 ro 3 cars setup for show. We proceeded to the park and got a few pictures, walked the trail around the forest and in an hour headed back for route 40 and eastward bound. It is hard to imagine that millions of years ago this dry, desert was lush with vegetation and inhabited by dinosaurs. All along the way were signs for Navajo Indian Trading Posts offering jewelry, food, gas, blankets, you name it. As we entered New Mexico we were greeted by magnificent red and yellow cliffs with Navajo homes built in their native adobe style sheltered at the base of the cliffs just as their ancestors had built their homes years ago. Small homes dot the reservation with broken down cars or trucks in the yards and horses grazing on what they can find green to eat. The red cliffs are always to our left towering high and stately. Suddenly just past the Continental Divide the earth looked as if it had erupted as blacktop does during an intense heat wave. The rocks were black as pitch and appeared as if the earth had been pushed up from underneath by massive pressure trying to escape from deep within the earth’s crust. Bernie told me later that years ago when he traveled this way he was told it was from volcanic activity thousands of years ago. We have settled at the Quality Inn in Albuquerque NM. I picked up one of those advertising magazines at some McDonalds on the way and found a coupon for a very good rate and they have a full hot breakfast buffet with your room rate. I never paid much attention to these little advertisement booklets until Kathy showed me the wisdom in checking them out.
It was already warm when we left Winslow around 7:30 AM heading for Albuquerque, New Mexico. A few miles down the road we pulled off route 66 at Holbrook, AZ to find the Painted Desert and the Petrified Forest NP. Downtown Holbrook is a typical example of the old route 66 era where you find the Wigwam Motel with several cars from the 1950’s parked in front. Just as we entered the road to the Petrified Forest there were two information/souvenir businesses with several cars parked outside. I pulled into one and when we parked the bikes we noticed the tires were flat on one of the cars; then we noticed the second car didn’t have a tag and the tires on the third car were flat. Wouldn’t you guess – all the cars were ‘junks’ parked there to make it appear as if they were busy when in reality they weren’t even opened yet! We went across the street to the second business and while they were open and did have two or three real customers they too had 2 ro 3 cars setup for show. We proceeded to the park and got a few pictures, walked the trail around the forest and in an hour headed back for route 40 and eastward bound. It is hard to imagine that millions of years ago this dry, desert was lush with vegetation and inhabited by dinosaurs. All along the way were signs for Navajo Indian Trading Posts offering jewelry, food, gas, blankets, you name it. As we entered New Mexico we were greeted by magnificent red and yellow cliffs with Navajo homes built in their native adobe style sheltered at the base of the cliffs just as their ancestors had built their homes years ago. Small homes dot the reservation with broken down cars or trucks in the yards and horses grazing on what they can find green to eat. The red cliffs are always to our left towering high and stately. Suddenly just past the Continental Divide the earth looked as if it had erupted as blacktop does during an intense heat wave. The rocks were black as pitch and appeared as if the earth had been pushed up from underneath by massive pressure trying to escape from deep within the earth’s crust. Bernie told me later that years ago when he traveled this way he was told it was from volcanic activity thousands of years ago. We have settled at the Quality Inn in Albuquerque NM. I picked up one of those advertising magazines at some McDonalds on the way and found a coupon for a very good rate and they have a full hot breakfast buffet with your room rate. I never paid much attention to these little advertisement booklets until Kathy showed me the wisdom in checking them out.
Friday, June 26, 2009
Traveling Route 66
Day 17 – June 26, 2009
Breakfast at the Silver Spoon Diner on route 66 in Kingman and then off we went heading east on The Mother Road. We begin to see more green in the fields to the left and right. Small trees and shrubs and the tumbleweed is green but still no grass. There are a few small herds of longhorn cattle or other beef breeds. In one of the open semi-desert fields I noticed hundreds of prairie dog holes and little prairie dogs sitting up watching us pass; some were scurrying across the road while others were just resting and sunning themselves on the road. Not real smart animals! We stopped for a rest break and some route 66 souvenir shopping in Seligman, AZ. In Williams AZ we stop for some pictures and Glenn, Kathy, Roger and Ginny decide to stay for the night and then visit the Grand Canyon tomorrow. We will meet them back in Delaware. Bernie, Shirley, Don and I head for Winslow, AZ for the night.
Breakfast at the Silver Spoon Diner on route 66 in Kingman and then off we went heading east on The Mother Road. We begin to see more green in the fields to the left and right. Small trees and shrubs and the tumbleweed is green but still no grass. There are a few small herds of longhorn cattle or other beef breeds. In one of the open semi-desert fields I noticed hundreds of prairie dog holes and little prairie dogs sitting up watching us pass; some were scurrying across the road while others were just resting and sunning themselves on the road. Not real smart animals! We stopped for a rest break and some route 66 souvenir shopping in Seligman, AZ. In Williams AZ we stop for some pictures and Glenn, Kathy, Roger and Ginny decide to stay for the night and then visit the Grand Canyon tomorrow. We will meet them back in Delaware. Bernie, Shirley, Don and I head for Winslow, AZ for the night.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Beginning the Mother Road
Day 16 – June 25, 2009
Planned to meet at 9:30 AM to leave Vegas; Bernie checked his oil and found the shop had not filled the bike so he called Glenn to stop and get a quart since the shop was close to their hotel. We waited and waited and Glenn, Kathy, Roger and Ginny finally showed up about an hour or so later – they had gotten lost in the vast, fast moving city. It was hot – about 90 degrees already as we headed south for Hoover Dam. The traffic was pretty heavy and there is now a security check point before you cross the dam. Traffic was moving at 5 mph; bumper to bumper for about 15 miles. The new bypass to route 93 is almost complete and then you will not be able to travel across the dam. The next 70 miles were hot with more deserts. Honestly I’m getting pretty tired of the desert, the heat and the wind. I cannot imagine how the settlers must have felt crossing this waste land in covered wagons. I’m certainly ready for the green fields of Kentucky and Tennessee. We have arrived in Kingman and will begin traveling the Mother Road – Route 66 tomorrow as much as possible. We had lunch at Mr. D’Z on route 66 and it was a step back in time. We only traveled 114 miles today but everyone felt beat-up I think because of the heat and the very slow, tense pace at the Hoover Dam.
Planned to meet at 9:30 AM to leave Vegas; Bernie checked his oil and found the shop had not filled the bike so he called Glenn to stop and get a quart since the shop was close to their hotel. We waited and waited and Glenn, Kathy, Roger and Ginny finally showed up about an hour or so later – they had gotten lost in the vast, fast moving city. It was hot – about 90 degrees already as we headed south for Hoover Dam. The traffic was pretty heavy and there is now a security check point before you cross the dam. Traffic was moving at 5 mph; bumper to bumper for about 15 miles. The new bypass to route 93 is almost complete and then you will not be able to travel across the dam. The next 70 miles were hot with more deserts. Honestly I’m getting pretty tired of the desert, the heat and the wind. I cannot imagine how the settlers must have felt crossing this waste land in covered wagons. I’m certainly ready for the green fields of Kentucky and Tennessee. We have arrived in Kingman and will begin traveling the Mother Road – Route 66 tomorrow as much as possible. We had lunch at Mr. D’Z on route 66 and it was a step back in time. We only traveled 114 miles today but everyone felt beat-up I think because of the heat and the very slow, tense pace at the Hoover Dam.
Las Vegas
Day 15 – June 24, 2009
We rode through Death Valley today. As soon as we entered the region we began to descend like a roller coaster into a furnace. As we went deeper into the belly of the earth the heat climbed and was registering 125 degrees on the bike thermometer. The whole area was one pile or mountain of ash, desert, rock and dead tumbleweed. About the time I decided nothing was living in this God forsaken place a small critter ran across the road. I felt as if I was riding through the bottom of a huge furnace twisting and turning climbing and descending among the burning cinders. But we were still at 2000 feet elevation and then the roller coaster dropped to sea level and to our right and left were sand dunes just as you find at the beach back home in Delaware. For the first time on this trip I was wondering what I had gotten into. Leaving Death Valley was not much better – more desert, heat, blowing sand and dead tumbleweed but with one added feature – the wind was back. It was as if the ‘wind switch’ was turned on the minute we crossed the Nevada state line. We planned to spend the night in Las Vegas giving Shirley time to visit her sister and the guys wanted to get the oil changed in their bikes. Glenn, Kathy, Roger and Ginny wanted to get a hotel in the old downtown Vegas and I had no desire to wonder around downtown or the strip so Bernie, Shirley, Don and I stayed at Patsy’s house (Shirley’s sister). Immediately Don and I headed for the closest Honda shop and Glenn and Bernie headed for a Harley shop 10 miles away in the downtown area. The Honda shop was very busy but worked us in with a 3 hour wait and then when they finished we noticed oil leaking and they had to do a little more work to get it right. After getting the Harleys serviced Bernie headed back to Patsy’s while Glenn headed for their hotel. Bernie became so turned around in the busy streets and he said he saw several skeletons of people who got on the freeway and just never found their way off! He tried to call Patsy’s cell phone – no answer – he tried to call Don’s cell phone – no answer because he had the number wrong. He stopped and asked someone on the street but they had no idea. He continued to ride round and round hoping something would look familiar. Finally after about an hour or two he was off the bike and Shirley called his cell and asked where he was and Patsy’s daughter gave him directions to get back to the house. Poor Bernie – he was within a block or two of the house all the time. Patsy was laughing her head off. In Bernie’s defense I must say the traffic is crazy in Las Vegas.
We rode through Death Valley today. As soon as we entered the region we began to descend like a roller coaster into a furnace. As we went deeper into the belly of the earth the heat climbed and was registering 125 degrees on the bike thermometer. The whole area was one pile or mountain of ash, desert, rock and dead tumbleweed. About the time I decided nothing was living in this God forsaken place a small critter ran across the road. I felt as if I was riding through the bottom of a huge furnace twisting and turning climbing and descending among the burning cinders. But we were still at 2000 feet elevation and then the roller coaster dropped to sea level and to our right and left were sand dunes just as you find at the beach back home in Delaware. For the first time on this trip I was wondering what I had gotten into. Leaving Death Valley was not much better – more desert, heat, blowing sand and dead tumbleweed but with one added feature – the wind was back. It was as if the ‘wind switch’ was turned on the minute we crossed the Nevada state line. We planned to spend the night in Las Vegas giving Shirley time to visit her sister and the guys wanted to get the oil changed in their bikes. Glenn, Kathy, Roger and Ginny wanted to get a hotel in the old downtown Vegas and I had no desire to wonder around downtown or the strip so Bernie, Shirley, Don and I stayed at Patsy’s house (Shirley’s sister). Immediately Don and I headed for the closest Honda shop and Glenn and Bernie headed for a Harley shop 10 miles away in the downtown area. The Honda shop was very busy but worked us in with a 3 hour wait and then when they finished we noticed oil leaking and they had to do a little more work to get it right. After getting the Harleys serviced Bernie headed back to Patsy’s while Glenn headed for their hotel. Bernie became so turned around in the busy streets and he said he saw several skeletons of people who got on the freeway and just never found their way off! He tried to call Patsy’s cell phone – no answer – he tried to call Don’s cell phone – no answer because he had the number wrong. He stopped and asked someone on the street but they had no idea. He continued to ride round and round hoping something would look familiar. Finally after about an hour or two he was off the bike and Shirley called his cell and asked where he was and Patsy’s daughter gave him directions to get back to the house. Poor Bernie – he was within a block or two of the house all the time. Patsy was laughing her head off. In Bernie’s defense I must say the traffic is crazy in Las Vegas.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Last night in California
Day 14 – June 23, 2009
Leaving Placerville this morning we took 49 South heading for Yosemite NP. HWY 49 North was a real treat with all its twists and turns and 49 South proved to be just as much fun to ride. But nothing compares with route 120 approaching Yosemite! We climbed thousands of feet with 5 or 6 switchbacks because the climb was so steep. This road is not just the park entrance – it is traveled by trucks as well as buses and small towns (or what were towns in the past) can be found along the road. We were behind a truck and a bus trying to inch their way up this mountain and maneuver the switchbacks so this dropped our speed to about 10 mph so I was playing with the clutch and the brake to keep Abigail pulling. In Yosemite the stone walls reach high into the sky and the waterfalls seem to be falling in slow motion. You stand with your head tipped back as far as possible to see the tops. We saw a brown bear resting in a meadow and some dear. Heading out of the park we continued on route 120 which is Tioga Pass and climbs to over 9000 feet in elevation. The ride is amazing as you pass through meadows and forest then suddenly the forest slips away and the earth has suddenly opened up and you are riding beside a bottomless pit with no guard rails or shoulders on the road. I glance at the view but dare not linger lest I begin to pull the bike in the direction of my sight. Then as suddenly as the gapping hole appeared it is gone and the space is filled with the forest again and all the time we are climbing and coasting down the other side. About 9000 feet up I was getting cold so we stopped to put on our jackets. When we reached route 395 the speed picked up and we could move along at 70 mph then suddenly around Bishop CA we were in the desert again with no warning and the heat index jumped to a very uncomfortable degree. We have settled for the night at Motel 6 in Bishop, CA.
Leaving Placerville this morning we took 49 South heading for Yosemite NP. HWY 49 North was a real treat with all its twists and turns and 49 South proved to be just as much fun to ride. But nothing compares with route 120 approaching Yosemite! We climbed thousands of feet with 5 or 6 switchbacks because the climb was so steep. This road is not just the park entrance – it is traveled by trucks as well as buses and small towns (or what were towns in the past) can be found along the road. We were behind a truck and a bus trying to inch their way up this mountain and maneuver the switchbacks so this dropped our speed to about 10 mph so I was playing with the clutch and the brake to keep Abigail pulling. In Yosemite the stone walls reach high into the sky and the waterfalls seem to be falling in slow motion. You stand with your head tipped back as far as possible to see the tops. We saw a brown bear resting in a meadow and some dear. Heading out of the park we continued on route 120 which is Tioga Pass and climbs to over 9000 feet in elevation. The ride is amazing as you pass through meadows and forest then suddenly the forest slips away and the earth has suddenly opened up and you are riding beside a bottomless pit with no guard rails or shoulders on the road. I glance at the view but dare not linger lest I begin to pull the bike in the direction of my sight. Then as suddenly as the gapping hole appeared it is gone and the space is filled with the forest again and all the time we are climbing and coasting down the other side. About 9000 feet up I was getting cold so we stopped to put on our jackets. When we reached route 395 the speed picked up and we could move along at 70 mph then suddenly around Bishop CA we were in the desert again with no warning and the heat index jumped to a very uncomfortable degree. We have settled for the night at Motel 6 in Bishop, CA.
Monday, June 22, 2009
The Pacific Ocean At Last
Day 13 – June 22, 2009
Up early and heading back to Leggett to take California HWY 1 to Fort Bragg in hopes of seeing the Pacific Ocean. This part of HWY 1 is up and over some mountains with more twists and turns; for over 30 miles it was one curve after another with very few straight sections. We could smell the ocean before we could see it but the anticipation mounted. Finally we topped a mountain and cleared the forest and there it was in all its beauty. We rode HWY 1 for about 80 miles and stopped for breakfast at Fort Bragg. Glenn, Kathy, Roger and Ginny decided to ride on to San Francisco and will join up with us later tonight while Bernie, Shirley, Don and I headed cross country to Placerville for the night. We picked up the last part of route 50 at West Sacramento since we had departed the route at Placerville two days earlier. Route 50 begins and ends the same way – a 4 and 6 lane divided super highway with fast moving traffic. We have settled for the night at National 9 Inn in Placerville and I can highly recommend this establishment. The price is right at $48 a night and the room is very clean and well maintained.
Up early and heading back to Leggett to take California HWY 1 to Fort Bragg in hopes of seeing the Pacific Ocean. This part of HWY 1 is up and over some mountains with more twists and turns; for over 30 miles it was one curve after another with very few straight sections. We could smell the ocean before we could see it but the anticipation mounted. Finally we topped a mountain and cleared the forest and there it was in all its beauty. We rode HWY 1 for about 80 miles and stopped for breakfast at Fort Bragg. Glenn, Kathy, Roger and Ginny decided to ride on to San Francisco and will join up with us later tonight while Bernie, Shirley, Don and I headed cross country to Placerville for the night. We picked up the last part of route 50 at West Sacramento since we had departed the route at Placerville two days earlier. Route 50 begins and ends the same way – a 4 and 6 lane divided super highway with fast moving traffic. We have settled for the night at National 9 Inn in Placerville and I can highly recommend this establishment. The price is right at $48 a night and the room is very clean and well maintained.
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